The Zanzibar coast, with its mix of culture, energy, and seaside beauty, is a magical spot for cruisers to anchor and soak up both local life and serene seascapes. Picture Maasai warriors performing their famous high jumps over kikoys (their traditional garments), locals enjoying impromptu beach workouts in a makeshift gym, and lively shows of acrobatics and fire dancing – sometimes with more passion than precision, which is never ideal when fire’s involved!
One of the great joys of being a cruiser is enjoying popular destinations from a peaceful vantage point. Sure, we’re tourists too, but cruising allows us to observe the scene from a slight distance, enjoying a touch of exclusivity. Anchored 30 metres off the beach, we’ve got the best of both worlds: stunning ocean sunsets from the stern, and a panoramic view of beaches, resorts, and palm trees from the bow.
And though we’re just off-shore, there’s no shortage of social connection. With at least four other cruising boats sharing the bay, camaraderie is strong. Gatherings are a staple: sundowners on Shamaness, karaoke on Aliika, dinner on Double Cove, and card night on Cruising Kiwis. Dinghies are the mode of transport, making for easy back-and-forth visits and keeping the social scene lively.
When we do head ashore, it’s often for provisions, beach time, or a café visit. For shopping, we hop aboard “Fakki’s Bucky,” a sturdy little flat-bed ute owned by Fakki, a Zanzibari with the build of a rugby flanker and a heart of gold. He’s as friendly as they come, and he drives us through the villages, where we simply tap on the roof when we spot a store we want to visit. Fakki stops on a dime, and we hop out to get our goods before piling back into the shrinking space on his ute, repeating the routine from shop to shop.
In the villages, there’s also a warm expat community, mainly from South Africa, who welcomed us with open arms. Saturdays were reserved for footy matches (despite a few ill-timed All Blacks vs. Springboks games!) and the weekly darts tournament. Craig surprised everyone – but himself – with his darts skills, taking second place in every round.
Alongside our cruising, we even picked up some side work with charters. On one trip, we hosted 17 large, lively Brits and Zimbabweans who came aboard to celebrate a birthday – which turned into a surprise engagement! On another, we took out eight South Africans for a fishing trip. By 6:10 a.m., the first beer was cracked, and by 11:00, they disembarked with empty bottles, some Jameson, and big smiles. As for the fish? They were safe and unbothered.
Now, with our sea legs itching for adventure, a weather window has opened for a south-eastern passage. Next stop: Mayotte!
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